The Church in Fort Good Hope

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The church in Fort Good Hope, a community north of us, is a National Historic Site and has its own wikipedia page.

Church of Our Lady of Good Hope
Church of Our Lady of Good Hope

I had a chance to visit it recently and take these photos of its beautifully painted interior.

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It was built by Father Émile Petitot (1838-1916), a French missionary, cartographer, ethnoligist, geographer and linguist. He was an amazing character, one of those adventurers of old who forsook Western society and set off into the unexplored unknown, learned and mastered indigenous languages, visited and mapped never before traveled areas, built communities and amazing churches in them, established agriculture in places that had never known it and generally lived a fuller life than anyone today could know. He seems to me like the kind of person whose cumulative life-long first-person experience (if, at the end of time, gods and aliens can go back and relive anyone’s life) would be a tourist attraction for time travelers.

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Unfortunately, so the local priest told me, the church is terribly insulated and almost impossible to heat so it almost never gets used. At least the cold and disuse helps to preserve the beautiful interior.

Corn rows

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I thought you guys might appreciate this picture of me getting corn rows put in my hair for a wedding in Australia.

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Maciek’s review of corn rows:

  • Looks awesome.
  • Requires lots of fake hair to be put in, if you have thin, straight hair like mine.
  • Too itchy and annoying to have in for more than a week or so.
  • Would do it again, but only rarely.

Fire Feeding

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A lot of local Dene traditions were lost over the last few hundred years as populations gradually shifted from living on the land to hanging out at home watching Netflix (sometimes not voluntarily). One tradition that seems to have hung around, however, is fire feeding.

I’ve seen this happen a few times now. Everyone stands in a circle around or near a fire to be fed. A few people, usually older men, sing and beat drums. Sometimes a Christian prayer is said, but usually in the local Dene language. The drums are, I believe, locally made from stretched hide of caribou.

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A recent fire feeding ceremony in Tulita

Afterwards, everyone (even weird foreign whiteys like me) takes a little (about a pinch of) tobacco, flour, sugar or other granular foodstuff and throws it into the fire. As best as I understand, this means the fire is fed and bad things won’t happen as much and good things will.